A Rubeus ode to phenomenal gemstones.
The mineralogical symbol of Russia, alexandrites were discovered in 1834 and named in honour of the future emperor, Alexander II. A precious variety of chrysoberyl, they were first unearthed in the famous mines in the Ural Mountains, alongside the emerald deposits.
The discovery of the first crystals of alexandrite can be attributed to Ya.V. Kokovin, who drew attention to the fact that these green stones, originally believed to be emerald crystals, turned red by night when viewed under candlelight.
Known as the 'alexandrite effect', this unique ability to change hue is why alexandrites are often described as 'emerald in the daytime and ruby at night'. Long numbered among the world’s ten rarest gemstones, alexandrites are a subject of great interest among collectors.
Such is their rarity that they are usually incorporated into private mineralogical collections long before they fall into the hands of jewellers.
The Rubeus Imperial Alexandrite collection comprises two chapters, the first of which is dedicated to the great Emperors of Russia.
The first chapter bears the namesake of the collection and features a dynamic design that is vibrant, exciting and emotional. From the precious stones clustered in the centre of each jewel to the artistic motifs that adorn the set, crafted from black titanium and encrusted with diamonds or rock crystal, the Imperial set is imbued with energy and strength.
The harmonious black, grey and white colour palette is punctuated by Russian alexandrites that look greenish in daylight and raspberry with purple spinel accents when admired beneath artificial light.
The striking combination of bright and muted tones helps to convey the expressiveness of the collection, with the rays diverging in all directions, like sunlight, through the carefully composed shapes. Metals and gems imitate the crystals of a precious stone that holds a treasure in its bosom: enchanting Russian alexandrites.
The largest one is rectangular, weighs 69.37 carats and crowns the Imperial necklace.The awe-inspiring weight of this gemstone makes it of primary interest among the well-known faceted alexandrites mined in the Urals.
Closely associated with the nobility throughout history, Russian alexandrites have long been considered the best and most desirable variety. Valued much more than those from Brazil and Africa, they are endowed with a mesmerising mystical beauty thanks to their natural inclusions, revealed upon faceting them. Their intrinsic opacity adds to their charm.
To accompany the unique alexandrite of the Imperial set, a further 29 chrysoberyls were selected. Twenty-one of them adorn the necklace, five are set into the bracelet and three sparkle in the ring. These numbers relate to the measure of beauty known as the ‘Golden Ratio’ or ‘Fibonacci numbers’ and are reflected in everything that surrounds us.
THE IMPERIAL NECKLACE
Transformable necklace with rectangular cut 69.37 cts Russian alexandrite; 19 smaller Russian alexandrites, rose and brilliant cut diamonds, rock crystal, red and grey spinels; black titanium and 18K white gold.
The Imperial necklace and its two separate brooches: enjoy the high jewellery privilege of transformation.
Bracelet with round cut 8,72 cts Russian alexandrite; further Russian alexandrites, spinels, diamonds and rock crystal; black titanium and 18K white gold.
Cocktail ring with 29.62 cts Russian alexandrite; 3 smaller Russian alexandrites, rose and brilliant cut diamonds, rock crystal and red spinels; black titanium and 18K white gold.
The second chapter of the Rubeus Imperial Alexandrite collection is dedicated to Russian Empresses throughout history.
The second chapter, Eternal, is comprised of five pieces that share a beautifully unconventional yet perfectly balanced aesthetics. Dedicated to powerful Empresses of the past and strong women of the present, the Eternal necklace, earrings and trio of rings celebrate sensuality, grace and unfading beauty in delicate jewels sculpted into organic forms.
To embellish the Eternal jewels, Victor and Natalya Bondarenko selected Russian alexandrites with smooth, rounded contours to convey the sense of peace that comes after a storm of emotions. Instead of angular cut stones, oval, cabochon, pear and heart shape alexandrites are brought to the fore.
The spectacular gem adorning the transformable Eternal necklace is a 10.30 carats stone that exhibits the pronounced colour-change property of high-quality Russian alexandrites.
Displaying arresting volume, this jewel depicts a flower grown in an underground cave among rare crystals. Despite the dark and damp environment, the delicate flower penetrated the fossilised interior of the cave. The icy water it absorbed revealed its natural beauty, but was so cold that it turned the petals into rock crystals, and scattered frozen drops of rain around it.
THE ETERNAL NECKLACE
Transformable necklace with oval cut 10.30 cts Russian alexandrite; smaller Russian alexandrites, rose and brilliant cut diamonds, green and blue sapphires, tanzanites, carved rock crystal; 18K white gold.
The shades of water: collection designer, Frédéric Mané enriched the Eternal set with more high jewellery statements.
Drop earrings with round cut 2.68 cts and 2.52 cts Russian alexandrites; green and blue sapphires, rose cut diamonds and tanzanites; 18K white gold.
Ring with cabochon cut 4.76 cts Russian alexandrite; green and blue sapphires, round tanzanites and diamonds; 18K white gold.
Ring with 2.12 cts cabochon cut Russian alexandrite and 2 trilliant cut diamonds weighing 0.94 cts in total; round brilliant diamonds; 18K white gold.
Toi et Moi style ring with two pear-shaped 8.27 cts and 5.69 cts Russian alexandrites; carved rock crystal and diamonds; 18K white gold.